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At the gate to the Apalta Vineyard, the young guard’s hackles
rose as he didn’t recognize our vehicle. After realizing that
Andrea rode with us, he smiled and opened the gate. The vast, verdant,
horseshoe-shaped valley was densely planted with rows of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot and Carmenère, and newer plantings of Petit
Verdot. On our approach to the winery, Andrea pointed out that many
of the vines surrounding us and along the steep hills bordering the
valley were 60-80 year-old, non-irrigated, pre-phylloxera vines. The
abundant sunshine, the poor, sandy soil, the underlying layer of clay
and the relatively shallow water table created a unique microclimate
for the production of their flagship wine, Clos Apalta, and their
Cuvée Alexandre Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Set upon a ridge overlooking the valley, the new Clos Apalta winery
emerges from the earth with curved pillars of native wood jutting
into the sky, encircling the eye-shaped winery. Much like Chile’s
modern wine industry, the winery is new, organic, strikingly if
not defiantly modern,
beautiful and well financed. We entered the new winery through the
“harvest room,” which was simply a large, empty room.
During harvest time, however, the room is filled with tables where
workers de-stem and sort by hand the grape clusters that were also
picked by hand. No machines are used in harvesting the grapes that
go into Clos Apalta, as evidenced by the room devoid of machinery.
Along the northern wall, square slabs of cement imprinted with worker
hands hang in tribute to the continuance of heritage, dedication
and artistry that go into making the wine.
We
were shown through a short corridor of ultra modern glass, stone
and wood, to the fermentation room where we looked down upon 21
towering, new, French oak vats encircling the elliptical room. The
state-of-the-art winery employs a gravitational flow system to gently
move wine from the tanks to the barrels and then to the bottle,
minimizing the use of mechanical pumps and vacuums, which may adversely
affect the wine. We had entered the winery through the harvest room
located on the fourth level of the winery. From the harvest room,
the grapes are simply brought over to the fermentation tanks, which
are then filled from the top. The lower four levels of the winery
are actually underground – the two levels of barrel rooms
are located directly below the fermentation room, the blending vats
are located below the barrel rooms, and the bottling facility is
located below the blending vats.
We
walked down a winding, circular stairwell reminiscent of the Guggenheim
Museum in Manhattan, and entered the first year barrel room, where
the aging process for Clos Apalta begins. The dramatically lit room
housed rows and rows of French oak barrels made by five different
companies to Casa Lapostolle’s specifications. The ceiling,
like the ceiling to the fermentation room, was lined with raulí,
a gorgeous, expensive, reddish-toned wood indigenous to Chile, which
gave the room a luxurious yet natural and organic feeling. It is
apparent that no expense was spared in creating not only the most
modern, but also the most beautiful winery.
Casa Lapostolle 2|
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