WHY WE’RE NOT DRINKING CHARDONNAY
Jack: “I thought you hated chardonnay.”
Miles: "No, no, no. I like all varietals. I just don't generally
like the way they manipulate chardonnay in California. Too much oak
and secondary malolactic fermentation."
Jack: "Huh."
From the movie “Sideways.”
Unfortunately, Merlot is not the only offender when it comes to
over-produced, bland and flabby wine. Again, Miles dislike of California
Chardonnays is accurate. Instead of the Chardonnay fruit that you
should be tasting in your wine, the wine is masked by oak and vanilla
flavors, often imparted in the case of cheap Chardonnay by oak chips
rather than expensive oak barrels, and altered by secondary malolactic
fermentation (the process by which malic acid is converted into
lactic acid), which “softens” the wine and gives it
that “buttery” taste. Miles is not alone in his dislike
for American Chardonnay. Indeed, in the first paragraph of Dorothy
Gaiter and John Brecher’s article about Chardonnays, the couple
writes: “If you were planning to head to the wine store tonight
to pick up a bottle of American Chardonnay under $20, we have one
word of advice: Don't.” (“When Cheap Chardonnay Is No
Bargain,” Wall Street Journal, Apr. 29, 2005, p. W8). But
Chardonnay need not be dull, lifeless, wood-flavored water. The
great white wines of Burgundy - Montrachet, Meursault and Chablis,
among others - are all made from 100% Chardonnay. And there are
a lot of producers making delicious, inexpensive Chardonnay without
the use of oak and secondary malolactic fermentation as a crutch.
It is the express mission of NoMerlot.com to guide you to excellent
drinking, inexpensive white wines, whether they be Chardonnays or
not.
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